![]() A conservative estimate is 10-15 minutes at my leisurely pace. Then just move the head forward, lower the loading arms and install the blade and ready to saw. Would be faster and easier with FAOs and if/when I set up on a level area. In the worst case I might have to dig out under a front landing pad or two or add a 2X or 2 under a rear pad to get the whole mill reasonably straight so I don't overwork the power feed or have the head want to move on its own. I then partially lower the back landing gear, chock the wheel, go drop and adjust the 3 front landing gears and raise it off the ball then lower and adjust the 3 rear landing gears. To set mine up I drive it to the location, if slightly off level on one side or the other I either dig a quick small hole in front of the high side tire or put a board or two in front of the low side tire and pull forward a foot or so till it rises or drops into position. I can verify my mill can be set up in a matter of minutes by myself and from what I have seen his larger WM brothers go up just as fast. This amazes them and would not happen if the head bounced as you have heard from your rep. I periodically show a new customer how I can consistently cut 1/4" or thinner "veneer" out of decent logs with my my mill. Another well made mill manufacturer also tends to try to make the cantilever design sound unsound in their ads instead of letting their mill design and quality sell itself. Saying that I have never heard anything negative about a Cook's mill and I am very disappointed the salesman stooped to bad-mouthing his competition rather than selling a well made mill. My mill is orange and smaller than what you are proposing to buy but I am very happy with it and the support I have gotten from the WM folks. However, I would still like to see what you have to say. Wood mizer vs Cooks? I realize this is like asking which is better, Ford, Dodge, Chevy. he Cools guy says that Wood mizers head will bounce along since it is a cantilever style. I know the Wood Mizer rep says his mill can be set up fast. For comparison, I am looking at the LT50 / LT70 vs Cooks AC 36 (52 and 62 HP). The Cooks mill looks like a awesome, heavy mill too. I have never seen a Cook's mill in person, but I have watched every video that I can find, and read every piece of literature. SO, I am taking the opportunity and money that they are paying me to leave to buy my mill. Last week, the company that I have worked for for 23 years laid me and about 500 other good people off. I have always wanted to buy m very own hydraulic bandsaw mill to start a small business. Grinding off 0.004″ – 0.008″ (0.1mm – 0.2mm) every time you sharpen the blade, should allow the blade to provide a life of 4-6 sharpenings.Hello Sawyer brothers. ![]() It is suggested to let sharpened blades rest at least one day in order to let the steel recover. However, if these cracks are ground off before they get too long, the crack can be removed, extending blade life. These stress cracks can eventually grow, causing the blades to break prematurely. Pushing dull blades through logs, will cause very small stress cracks to form in the gullet of the tooth. The gullet depth and take off can also be adjusted allowing 1″ – 1.25″ (25mm – 32mm) wide blades with tooth spacing (pitch) of 3/4″ – 1″ (19mm – 25mm) to be fitted to this sharpener.īandsaw blades will last longer if they are sharpened after approximately 2-4 hours of milling time and before they become too dull. The sharpener can be adjusted for tooth rake angles of 7, 10 and 14 degrees. ![]() The blade bracket, which is fitted to the blade, will automatically turn the machine off after the entire blade has been sharpened. The feeder arm advances the blade forward automatically while the cam actuated grinding disc sharpens the face and gullet of the tooth. It is powered by a 12V battery, so the sharpener can be used in remote areas. The Woodland Mills sawmill blade sharpener is a fully automatic bandsaw blade sharpener.
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